Tuesday, 24 July 2012

Seriously Good Gluten-Free cooking with Phil Vickery


Time for another review I think. Having tried a few more cookbooks out recently I want to mention this one in particular because it is different from many ‘ free from’ books in that the writer can and does eat whatever he likes.

The book is hardcover, nicely put together and was made in association with Coeliac UK, so a good start before I even open it.


        Right from the first page, even before the contents page, there is useful advice on products like Xanthan gum (brilliant for gluten free baking, or so I’m told here.) I am a bit confused by this information being so close to the front, rather than later in the book, but it is good to know anyway I guess.

        The book is divided into sections and includes breakfasts, party foods and, my favourite, the all important comfort foods. I know that for me the biggest loss when I couldn’t eat flour any more was all the meals I grew up with that mum would make when it was cold or I needed something filling and homely.  When I saw the section in the book I got giggly and childish with glee.

         There is also a vegetarian section which is poignant as I am toying with the idea of becoming vegetarian right now and am concerned I will starve to death.

        What amazes me about this book is that Phil Vickery is not a sufferer of Coeliac disease. He was just a normal chef interested in getting his Christmas puddings sold at the local fayre. He kept being asked if they were gluten free, which they were, and decided to get them labelled as such. Through subsequent contact with Coeliac UK he decided to write a gluten free cook book from a chef’s point of view and not that of sufferers. Considering how much research and time has been involved in this project I am very impressed that he made the effort.


        The book starts with some information on Coeliac disease, how it affects you, what can and cannot be eaten and some guidance on diagnosis. Very helpful if you suspect you have the disease but also for informing family members who want to cook for you.

        In the first the section entitled, ‘Breakfasts, Smoothies and Drinks,’ there are only a few breakfast options. His choices are very ‘chefy’ and not the sort of thing anyone would make very often. I don’t really ever consider ‘Crab and Mushroom Kedgeree’ for breakfast and his recipe takes 25 minutes to cook anyway so knowing me it would probably be lunch time before I served it up. The ‘Flat Mushrooms with Basil Pancakes’ takes a whopping 40 minutes to prepare and cook, which I would never ever do at breakfast time. Both would be better relegated to another section of the book.

        Vickery does however have some wonderful ideas for quick meals. My favourite is the ‘Stir-fried rice with avocado and horseradish.’ Ready in only 15 minutes, it is one of the faster options but also its simplicity is welcomed after a long day at work.

        A lot of his dishes are dairy laden (including the veggie options) which for me is a no-go and makes this book quite difficult. In some dishes such as the ‘Popcorn chicken with spicy dipping sauce’ the condensed milk or dairy cream can be substituted using soya cream but other meals contain three or four types of dairy and would be no good using substitutions.

        The selection of salad and dips is huge, which is perfect for this three day heat wave we are having (if you get cooking now). Having given it a try I will most definitely be making his ‘Chorizo, red onion and butterbean salad’ again. It is very simple, wholesome and quite strongly flavoured.

        Sadly our concept of ‘Comfort Food’ seems to differ. I think ‘chicken and leek pie’, or ‘spotted dick’, Vickery thinks ‘Lentil, Lime and Coriander Soup’ and ‘Sweet Kansas Style Barbecue Pork Shoulder.’ We agree on ‘Pot Roast Chicken with Sweet Baby Onions,’ but I could make that gluten free very easily and was hoping for redesigned English favourites. 

        One thing I can say for this book is that Phil Vickery is most definitely a chef and not a health guru. He adds sugar to all his drinks and many of his dressings, butter features quite heavily and although there is nothing wrong with that, it is something to consider.

        The dessert section mixes decadent ‘Fudgy Almond Cake’ with ‘Plain Scones’ much to my relief. I wanted a good gluten free scone recipe and now I have one! I would personally avoid the ‘Tangy Lime Mousse with Mint Muddle’ though, it sounds truly vile!

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